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By Mason Brown (Ed.)

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Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originallyelaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Very little on the market to day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as 'calico print'. - cambric 1. a plain weave, traditionally light weight cotton fabric with a lustre on the surface. Used for handkerchiefs underwear, shirts, aprons, and tablecloths. 2. soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached or piece dyed.

I casting out the act of rigging some of the pattern controlling hooks of a jacquard loom so that they will not act, when the pattern to be woven does not require the action of all the hooks. I I • cationic ; a type of dye used on acrylic or I on modified polyester or modiI fied nylon yarn . Often used to achieve cross-dyed effects cationic dye able yarn is woven in I a pattern with regular yarn in I the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in 2 baths, one for each I of the types of yarn.

I : - crocking I : ~ ; : the rubbing-off of dye from a fabric. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the dyeing agent, the use of incor- crinkled ~ rect dyes or dyeing procedures, an Wleven, wrinkle, or puck- ~ or the lack of proper washing ered effect on the fabric surface ; prqcedures and fInishing treatwhich can be created by a vari- : ments after the dyeing process. ety of mechanical or chemical I . : - cross cut fIrushes, or through the use of I . high twist yarns. : refers to a corduroy fabnc ~ which has the pile cut in a weft - crinoline ; wise direction, forming squares a lightweight, plain weave, stiff- : or rectangles on the surface.

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